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Custom 4-Point Roll Bar Install |
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Additional details |
![]() The main hoop was put in first so that Sean could weld all the way around the junction to the baseplate. If the diagonal had been put in at the same time then this would not have been possible. |
![]() Note that the rear pop-out windows are removed. This was invaluable during construction of the roll-bar. And is was also a good way to put the rear seat-back in after completion of the project! |
On the far side of the car (above) you will see that we broke one of the cardinal rules of cage building - namely that all tubes should come together at junctions. The rear down-bars really should have met the main hoop a bit higher up and the diagonal should have gone farther over so that they would have come together. But we had to make some compromises in order to be able to keep all of the interior trim. The cage is made of 1.50" x 0.120" DOM tubing, as required by the SCCA GCR (General Competition Rules). I do not plan on doing any "fender banging" with this car (any time soon), but I figured the SCCA guidelines would ensure that my roll bar was adequate for the task at hand. In time I will tie the roll bar into the hard-points for the shoulder belts on the B-pillars (rumor has it that there are identical hardpoints underneath the plastic trim on the A-Pillars - probably a hold-over from the factory Touring Car days). This should really help stiffen up the chassis. But even with the roll bar as it is, I noticed an impressive increase in torsional rigidity (such as when driving sideways up a driveway). This helps the handling of the car as the two ends of the chassis are not fighting each other as much. By far the greatest chassis rigidity in the modern racing world can be found in European Super Touring cars (greater even than F1). These guys have taken the art of cage building to a whole new level. NASCAR cages may look impressive but they have so much flex in their cars that they actually account for it as part of their suspension tuning! |
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